29th June. Gedre

The start of today's walk was a drive from Gavarnie up to the Vallee d'Ossoue. The road passed the debris of 2 huge avalanches with lots of snow still there. The last 4km of driving was on a very rough track along the valley.
The walk was south towards the Col de Bernatoire, and started with a steep climb. Although it was before 9a.m. I could feel the sun burning my skin through my t-shirt. Another spectacular taster of a walk, to really experience these mountains I need to be backpacking. My walk took me past the Cabine de Lourdes, which, though basic would make a good place to stay the night in bad weather. It's on the GR10. From here the valley narrowed and I carried on until the path steepened for the push to the Col.
On the drive up the valley I daw several marmots close up. I continued seeing them throughout the walk, dozens and dozens of them. Until today I've only seen them scuttling off or in the distance.
Being unfit still and so hot I tetraced my steps to the Cabine and followed the the GR10 to the Lac d'Ossue and down the track to the car.
I had my closest sitting of a vulture, and it was sat on rocks on the horizon 100m distant.
The patternof my days in this heat is walk in the morning and chiĺl out during the afternoon. I'm  camped under a Lime tree thats in flower. Lime tree blossom is a relaxing tea to drink, so being under the tree is definately a good place to be.

28th Oops getting confused by days and dates

28th June. Gedre

I had a fantastic drive up up and up on mountain roads to the end of the road and a walk in the Cirque de Troumouse.
Quite a few Spanish vehicles in the car park. I followed a group out, they were equipped with ice axes and crampons, so I knew I'd only follow them so far.
This was proper mountain walking in such a magnificent situation. I kept stopping to take photo's, and the Spanish group were way ahead traversing steep rough scree. When I reached this I diverted to make my own way back.
I saw a few Marmots, a spotted flycatcher, plenty of Alpine Choughs and Vultures and a Ring Ouzel. It would be good to have some lightweight binoculars.
I walked 6miles, which I do happy to be able to walk a bit each day now, ( fingers crossed).
There's not much in the way of shops in Gedre or Gavarnie, so I had to drive to Luz-St-Sauveur to stock up.

29th June. Gedre

Today's walk took me from the Lac de Gloriettes to the Cirque d'Estaube, the 3rd of the adjoining horseshoe valley heads.
  My photo's don't capture the magnificence of these cirques, the lens is not wide angle enough. The 1st two photo's are adjoining. The 3rd one is looking the opposite direction.
There was no wind and the sun was blastingly strong by 10a.m. A hat is vital. I refilled my waterbottle from the river and the water was so cold on my throat when I drank from it.
I was knackered by the time I got back to the car, not suprising after walking nearly 10miles on a lot of rough terrain.   As it was happy hour when I got to Gedre I had a pint, the 1st from a bar since I've been in Europe.
To make my money stretch I buy my food and beer from supermarkets. I usually buy frozen chips to cool my beers in the coolbox. I did find ice in Italy but not many places in France yet.
This campsite has a freezer, so I put a bottle of water in each day to keep supplies the right temperature.

27th June. Gedre

Another early start and a great drive out of Gedre brought me 3000' higher to the Cirque de Troumouse.
I set off after a group of Spanish hikers, equiped wigh ice axes and crampons. I would only follow them so far though. This was proper mountain walking. At 7400' the trail turned to steep rocks, definately not for my foot., though the mind over matter of aending heat and light to my foot was working !!!
I made up my own trail until I found a proper one. It was great to hear first then see Marmots. also a pied flycatcher gave a lovely aerial performance close to me. A dozen vultures were circling. Alpine Choughs were often anout in small groups.
By the time I returned to the car I'd covered over 6miles. This is making me feel that there's a few more walks in this wonderful area before I head on

26th June. Gedre

I arrived at Gavarnie before 8a.m. to make the most of the the day, it's cooler, no cloud build-up, and not many people about. I set off on the main path for the Cirque de Gavarnie.
When talking with my Dutch neighbour at Sorgeat about my foot problem, He suggested healing it myself, by sending light and warmth to my foot whenever I feel any pain. I've been doing that since then, I was interested to see how this walk would work out.
I took so many photo's of the Cirque on the walk in. I only saw two other people on the way.
When my foot hurt, I have it my attention with heat and light imagined, and the pain would go.
It really is a superb spectacle, the whole area including the Spanish side is a world heritage site. The Spanish side includes the Ordessa gorge, which we walked through on the GR11 last year.
I was so pleased to have walked 7miles without my foot being sore. It means more walking in this wonderful location.
When I left the campsite in the morning I checked out one below it, and booked in there for the night. There's a few others here. and Hen's with their chicks, geese, and a pet rabbit free range. They check out to see if any foods available, but aren't a nuisance.

25th June. Gedre

I left Luchon heading for the Col de Peyresourde, en route I turned off for the Lac d'Oo. I got to the trailhead, but the information board informed me that it was too much for me with my foot as it is.
It was a stunning drive through the valley though.
Back enroute I could see the Port de la Glere, the pass I ascended to return over to the Spanish side of the Pyrenees last year. That ascent culminated in a very steep snowfield above a huge vertical drop. It was a case of move a foot, kick a step, move a walking pole and plunge it into the snow, then repeat with my other foot and walking pole zigzagging up the fifty plus degree slope. It was the scariest thing I'd ever done ! (1st photo shows the pass and snowfield, the lowest point on right of the 2 lowest points on the horizon).
The route over the passes I drove was even better than yesterdays, lots of stops to take in the views.
After lunch it was the ascent up to the Col de Tourmalet, (of Tour de France fame). It was spoilt by the vast ski resort of la Mongie, and the desecration of this stunning arena for ski slopes. Then the Col de Tourmalet was hideous amount of people and commercialisation. Regardless the surrounding mountains and steep descent were lovely. Though Bareges was very geared up for winter sports too.
The resorts I'd seen before were nice enough, but todays were not...
I found a campsite after checking out 4 beforehand. The people who owned it were very friendly 'country' folk. The toilet block was tatty. I was the only one staying here, though 2 previous sites were empty. Once I set up and showered the flys came out in force. I won't be here another night. The last photo is a view from the campsite.

24th June. Bagneres-de-Luchon

Today's drive took me through the Natural Parc of Pyrenees Ariegeoises via Vicdessos, Seix, and Audressein. It was the lovliest scenery of the whole trip so far. That there wasn't a lot of traffic made it especially so.
There were memorials at several villages commemorating the people, from many countries in Europe captured by the Germans during WW2. Many were Jewish, who were sent to Auscwich ! I've read how much people struggled to get to Spain in the hope of safety, and the people on their journeys who helped them to get this far.
By the time it was camp finding time, I was not far from Luchon. As Ben and I had walked over a high pass on the Spanish side to get here last year, so I drove on and returned to the same site for the night.

23rd June. Sorgeat

It was cloudy day, after going down to Ax-les-Thermes, which is very much a resort, I returned to the campsite.
The gardien/manager is a young guy who has built a cabin in the woods nearby. He grows veg, keeps sheep and hens, and has a horse for hauling timber. During the winter he works at a ski resort.
My neighbour is a Dutch guy who's been coming to the French Pyrenees for 12 years. He's a photographer, cabinet maker and buddhist. We have spent a lot of time talking together on all subjects. His wife is American, she's not into camping so he comes alone.

22nd June. Sorgeat, Pyrenee's

With the heat here, I decided last evening that I would drive to the Pyrenee's today.
My route took me via Nimes, Montpellier and Beziers managing to avoid motorway.
Driving through the northern Camargue, was highlighted by seeing plenty of Flamingo's, some close to the road.
From Beziers it was across country towards Carcasonne, passing the canal du midi several times. From Carcasonne it was North to Limoux, where it was 36°
I decided I needed to gain altitude before looking for a campsite, so carried on towards Ax-les-Thermes.
With the ascent came more tree's and cloud marked the high Pyrenee's. 
At Roquefeuil, Belcaire and Camutac I checked out campsite's, in this lovely area of broad valleys and wooded hillsides. I saw more wild flowers than anywhere on this journey to date.
After descending from the Col de Chioula, I found the Camping Municipal at Sorgeat just what I wanted.
As I was setting up the tent thunder was rumbling to the south from black clouds, whilst to the north there were blue skies.
The thunder didn't come to much, but I was woken at after midnight by a short intense shower.

21st June. Eygalieres. Parc Naturel des Alpilles

After checking out the rafting possibilities : nothing certain., I decided to head to the Luberon.
A lovely drive through varied terrain, though the Luberon is a lot of agriculture between low mountains. Lots of fruit and veg, and lavender just coming into flower. I kept on until the next natural park, Des Alpilles.
  As it was mid-afternoon I followed the 1st "Campings" signs and pulled in at a farm camping site. Very artistic, sculpture's, interestingly designed cabin's for hire. The other campers were nearly all Dutch.
It was hot and only 300' above sea level.

20th June. Castellane

  I walked too far, 5miles !, yesterday and my foot was sore, so a drive around the gorge today. There was regular stopping points with  great views, little wonder it's called Europe's Grand Canyon.
Before the river was dammed, the water flowed at up to 800 cu.meters per second in times of spate. Now it's controlled at between 8 and 30 cu./m. per second.
The route crossed over the river Artuby, where a 180m. bungy jump was set up. Lots of young men queuing for it.
At Les Caviliers, a cliffside restaurant, the drop is almost vertical for 300m.
The gorge ends where it flows into Lac de St. Croix. The return on the north side of the gorge, was not so hairy. I stopped for lunch on the roadside in the shade of a Plane tree, and the road was closed off for a cycle race to pass, nicely timed for me.
My camping neighbours are two young women hitching around on a shoestring budget. One's Ukrainian and the other is Russian. They don't speak French, though between them they do speak 6 languages.

18th June. Castellane

Set off for Le Gorges du Verdon via a very hilly route through l'Escarene, Contes, and Aspremont to pick up the main Nice to Grenoble road. Thankfully the main road snaked through the gorges and villages. By early afternoon I was at Castellane my destination for the day.
Castellane is very orientated to tourism, with lots of places offering rafting and similar water sports, and campsites. The 2nd campsite I checked out was the closest to the village and half the price of the one in Sospel.
A good explore of the village decided whilst here I should fulfill a desire of going whitewater rafting. I was told that it would be confirmed when 4 people had booked.
The weather's been perfect since arriving in France. Vivre La France !

19th June. Castellane

Not having heard from the rafting company, I called into their shop. The river flow is controlled by the operators of the dam upstream at Lac de Castillon, and they were not releasing enough water for rafting for a few days, damn.
Alors, I decided to climb the roc above the village, it's a steep path that rises to around 500' to the church. Services are still held there. The view over the village and gorge was worth the climb.
After lunch at the tent I drove into the gorge proper to visit the Samson gully. There were groups preparing to go canyoning down the river. Walking down to the river and along a trail that was soon high above the river as it descended. The trail was through long sections of unlit tunnel a lot of the time. I turned back after a mile or so as my foot was aching.
The cliffs are 2000' high in places through this section of the gorge and the only way to really experience the gorge is from the river.
It was very hot back in the sun with the heat held by the gorge.
I stopped on the way back to Castllone to look at a group of Griffon Vultures flying above then noticed a group in inflatable canoes descending the river.

17th June. Sospel.

I drove up up up to the Col du Turini and when I went for a walk around I was dive-bombed by Dusky Crag Martins. I think it was the sunglasses pushed up on my head, as a cyclist who arrived after was ignored by them.
There's a ski lift here and it's only 25miles from Nice.
I went on the Circuit de l'Authion, one way traffic as it's a narrow road. The highest point was crowned by a redoute, a tiny castle like fortification, complete with a moat.
Walking up to it I was short of breath, a combination of altitude, 6992', and inactivity. I was cuffed to see Alpine Choughs flying nearby.
It was scarred by shell hits, WW2 ?
The descents and ascents on the circular return to Sospel meant dozens of hairpin bends. Small wonder so many bikers are touring in the mountains.

16th June. Sospel

During the night, when I went for a pee, I was entertained by fireflys winking on and off like tiny flashing lights.
1st stop of the day was the tourist office. I drove as directed and parked the car under an overhanging rockface in the shadeand set off on a walk along the gorge of the river Bevere towards the village of Olivetta. (Which is in Italy).
It's a very lovely landscape and so lush after the mediterranean coast, which is only a few miles away. The fact is that it's 2000' higher and gets alot more rain here.
It was a hard way of life here when people terraced the steep hillsides to exist. One farm I could see below which had fields besides the river and a mule in the yard. There was no sign of any machinery, though electricity was supplied, yet the only access was a steep path down from the one I was following and across a plank footbridge. (photo).
There were plenty of tempting swimming spots. After a couple of miles my foot was feeling the terrain, so reluctantly I returned to the car. I don't want to overdo it yet.
I stopped off in Sospel for a coffee at a bar by the river and  just enjoyed people-watching in the sun.

15th June. Sospel, Parc du Mercantour, France

With unsettled weather for most of Europe for the next 10days, the south of France offered the best prospect. Its the wrong way really, as I'd wanted to visit Romania and some of the Balkan countries.
Once clear of Lake Garda it was flat for 200miles until the wooded hills of Liguria. Lots of tunnels again. (Why could Twyford Down have been tunneled instead of destroyed?).
The Mediterreanean coast was unappealing for me, so I'm in the Alpes Maritime. Lots of gorges.
Canyoning looks great, yet I'm not willing to set back the healing of my foot.
It's good to be in France again.

14th June. Camping Paolino, Dru

I headed off for the Dolomites mountains, a UNESCO world heritage site.
My route took me through Trento, Belluno, and Cortina, with Santa Cristina as a destination.
On the road to Belluno the skies darkened and it rained so heavily that I pulled into a layby until it eased off. The rain continued in showers until Cortina. Rain and low cloud meant limited views of the mountains !
The views I did get were absolutely stunning. The Dolomites are limestone and the shapes are very different to the granite of the Alps.
The car is not happy on uphill hairpin bends, drive-shafts possibly. I just have to take them slowly. There are lots of hairpin bends on the ascents in these mountains. (There are a lot of tinnels in Switzerland and Italy too).  Three passes were over 7500'.
On the journey to Santa Cristina there were no campsites. The area is geared to winter sports and there are plenty of hotels. There is not much land suitable for camping either.
I decided to drop to a lower elevation to find a campsite, the valleys broadened out at Bolzano, but then it became industry and vineyards. I drove towards Trento in pouring rain and still no campsites, so decided to return to camping Paulino.

13th June. near Dru

A drive about to a local lake through vineyards, then on busy roads northwards. The problem with a mountainous area is the roads are busy here. The signposts aren't helpful with my map, either the next villages (which aren't shown on the map) or cities (which are only on major roads).
Once on the road I wanted it ascended for 2000' or so up through forest. Very diferent to the valleys. I stopped off for a walk along the shore at Lake Molveno, a major upmarket tourist town. Plenty of hotels in a beautiful mountain setting. Everything very lovely not at all tacky. The temperature and air quality  being delightful.
Oh to be able to walk further !
I went to the local bar in the evening to watch the base-jumpers, though the one's no in wing-suits, often are not visible until they open their parachutes.
I can't imagine being so fearless as to stand on the edge of a huge drop. Respect and envy of these people

12th June. near Dro, Italy

Awoke to blue skies, and with the forecast for rain I decided to head for Italy.
An absolutely spectacular drive. Up to the Grimselpass and down to and along the Goms valley. I just had to stop to walk across a suspension bridge over the Rotten Rhone river. Then it was up and over the Simplon Pass to descend into Italy, and rain !
Italy impressed me immediately. Poor road surfaces, abandoned seeming roadworks, and general tattiness. Such a contrast to Swiss perfection.
I decided to head east to try and avoid the rain, as the forecast was better there.
So it was autostrada for a few hours, passing Milan and busy  all the way to turn off for Lake Garda.
I had no knowledge of Lake Garda. It's one huge resort, along with theme parks and hundreds of hotels and campsites along the lakes edge for miles and miles. Not my sort of place at all !
I drove north and pulled off to a tiny campsite set amongst vineyards at the base of huge near vertical limestone cliffs.
most of the campers are either climbers or base jumpers according to Paulo the owner's son, who gave me glasses of the wine he makes. The white was very palatable in the heat. 30°
I'd no sooner got set up and had my dinner than a thunderstorm started, with torrential rain. So much for driving away from rain !

11th June . Brienze

A drive along the Brienzer See (the lake) past Interlaken and on to touristic Grindelwald. No wonder so many visitors come here, the north face of the Eiger and several other 13000' plus peaks, its staggeringly beautiful.
I walked towards the Wetterhorn glacier and had to ford the meltwater from the glacier. My foot felt weak. It's so frustrating, being in such surroundings and not able to walk much.
I drove on to Stechelberg with more staggering views.
I've still got this hay fever that's been bothering me, sneezing, streaming nose, sore, watering eye's and feeling wiped out. Hopefully tomorrow will see an improvement.