Sept 29th Villafranca Montes de Oca

Day 47    16.5 miles   Total 612.5

The days walk was mostly parallel with the main road from Portugal and Northern Spain towards France and there were many lorries on it.
It started cold and warmed slowly.
There are a lot of people from the USA and Canada. I walked and talked with a few during the day.
On a break in Belorado the Irish women appeared and we spent a while together. They passed me when I was refilling my water bottle and were off too fast for me to catch. They checked out a Refugio unknown to me and I arrived in Villafranca before them.
Accomadation is in short supply, yet we managed to get into the Albergue municipal. Christina and Julia were here. Whilst having a drink outside the bar, the Americans, Paul and Peggy, from the day before turned up.  We'd lost contact and reconnected.
Paul and Peggy were staying at the Albergue attached to a very smart hotel. We couldn't find much to cook at the local shop, so ate at the restaurant €10.
Getting my washing in, I found my socks missing. Christina said someone had come into the dining room with them asking whose the were, earlier. Why couldn't they just have left them where they found them ?

Sept. 27th Azofra

Day 45     13.5  miles    Total 582

The grape harvest is in full swing, tractors taking trailers of grapes off to the wineries everywhere. The landscape is all vineyards where it's not rock.
It was noticeably cooler with a fresh breeze on the mornings  walk to Najera. A pretty town because of it's river and cliffs.
On last few hundred meters into Azofra I came upon some women being fed and given wine by Spanish couple. They insisted I join them. Then Alsu, my Russian amiga and a lovely young Portugese woman joined us.
I walked to the refugio with Christina (Portugese), Alsu was walking on a few miles more.
The evening was a party, 2 Irish women and Christina being the main personalities. 8 nationalities shared a lot of Rioja

Sept. 28th Grañon

Day 46   14miles    Total 596

I was one of the last to leave the hostel, most people leave before dawn. Either to avoid the heat of the afternoon or to make sure of a bed for the night.
The vineyards gradually gave way to ploughed fields and big landscapes.
At the 1st village I met up with The American couple, The Irish women and Christina, from the previous evening's party. I walked with them to Santa Domingo de la Calzada.
We visited the cathedral, but after a quick look around I set off again.
I read good reviews of the Donativo's in Grañon, so I went to the smaller of the 2. It was very basic, yet fine for me.
I met up with 3 other people I'd met on and off over the past week. Then whilst outdide the bar chatted with the Irish women, Sue and Theresa. They liked the sound of the Donativo's and went to the other one, mine was now full.
The other was in the roof of the church annex and people had exercise mats to sleep on. The other Donativo's donation box was open so that pilgrims, if they needed money could take instead of give !
Dinner was a shared meal at both places at 8pm. Shortly before 8 everyone was asked to go out into the street, where we met up with the people from the other Donativo. We had to sing for our supper, Spanish 1st, then Italians, English and Koreans.
Fortunately English speakers, though I met a guy from New Milton. It was great, as everyone was initially embarassed or hesitant, particularly the 5 Koreans.
The shared meals are really enjoyable
I got talking with an American couple who were delighted that I had a Zpacks backpack as well, as they did

Sept 26th. Navarette

Day 44    22miles    Total 268.5

Today is the Rioja Fiesta in Logrono, everwhere is booked, so I set off in the dark at 7am. A fiery sunrise with mountains silhouetted !  (spelling ?).
Up and down through vineyards, passing through Viana, for a coffee stop, and arriving in Logrono before midday and over 13 miles walked.
There was music blasting out for the fiesta everywhere, and crowds of people. After watching people in the main square over 2 coffees and a spinach empanada (pasty) for an hour, I headed out of the  city for Naverette.
At the end of a large lake I met up with 2 women from the Czech Republic who I'd 1st met last saturday. Whilst chatting a Spanish woman gave each of us a bunch of sun-warmed grapes, tiny very sweet grapes. These gave us a boost for the ascent to Naverrete. Accomadation was mostly fully booked, yet I got into a hostel run by French volunteers. I'm amazed how well I can communicate in French now.
I spent an interesting evening with a Korean looking Russian woman who lives in Guildford !!

Sept 25th Sansol

Day 43   16.5 miles   Total 446.5

I set off at dawn and soon came tomthe winery at Irache, that has free wine on tap for pilgrims. At 7.40 in the morning I only took a dab of red wine to mark the peak of my cap. Alcohol is a bonus after a day's walking for me !
The next 5 miles or so was along a narrow earth path through woodland. A stop for coffee in Luquin and it became ploughed fields with occasional vineyards, with wooded hillsides. The last few miles to Los Arcos was just gravel track/pista.
Los Arcos and many pilgrims are sat in the square having lunch. I sat in the shade of the cathedral and had mine too.
From Las Arcos to Sansol was 6km, and I was glad of my brolly  for this stretch that dragged in the early afternoon heat.
I booked into an Albergue which had a foot soaking pool. I was content with a shower.

Sept 24th Ayegui

Day 42   15miles   Total 530

Puente del Reina is a lovely little town. Last evening everywhere I walked there was the smell of red peppers being roasted.
I'm meeting a few English people now, and ate out with a guy (Chris) from Southampton last night.
Thankfully the countryside is much nicer than the area after leaving Pamplona.
An Estonian woman gave me food  for thought when she said she was walking to Lisbon after Compostella !
It was a case of 25km(15miles) or 32km so 15miles brought me to a modern suburb of Estella. The alburgue was an extension of a sports centre, not the most attractive of places, but clean and with everything I could want. (Lidl just down the hill, with 5.5% beer at 25c for 500ml cans.)
I invited an American guy to share the food I'd bought, he bought more food, as do others. 6 of us enjoyed a pot-luck dinner.

Sept. 23rd Puenta de Reina

Day 41    15 miles    Total 515

The day started with drizzle and it stayed all morning.
A long way to escape from Pamplona, then boring prairie type landscape, massive area's of ploughed land in the mist.
Before Pamplona it was wooded and a winding path through valleys. Today I could see the procession of pilgrims.
The path became muddy with so many people in front of me,then the final ascent to.the highest part of the day, Alto de Perdon. The descent was hard underfoot. I find it easier on my legs to descend fairly quickly, and with walking poles I passed a lot of cautious pilgrims.
It became dryer from here and soon I was in shorts and t-shirt
I arrived in Puenta de Reina (Queens bridge) just after 2pm, and booked into a hostel for €5 for the night.

Sept. 22nd Pamplona

Day 40    10 miles    Total 500

The days are drawing in noticeably, I set off at 7.20 and it was just light enough to see the camino.
Just 10 miles to Pamplona and the last 3 were through the suburbs of the largest city on the camino.
As I was walking through the centre, a shout of 'Terry', and there was George behind me. So good to see him and Anne, they were in Burger King. After their long day yesterday, they were waiting to sort stuff out !
After they left I chatted with a young Aussie, Claire for a bit. Then after a visit to the tourist office two more shout of Terry and I saw the French Canadian couple, then the Mexican woman from last night.
After all the old French people in France it's so refreshing to meet lots of younger people. On the walk in I chatted with two women from the Czech Republic, and another young woman from Estonia. I'm sharing my room in the hostel with an Irish guy.
I posted my tent and cooking stuff home, less weight to carry (800g). Spain is so much cheaper than France. It's getting colder, less than 20 today. Most hostels have cooking facilities.
Next to find some socks. Shops here shut from 1- 5pm.

Sept 21st Larrasoaña

Day 39    16 miles   Total 490

It was a cold night in the cloisters, there was frost on the roofes of the houses.
We all went to the hotel for coffee and to charge phones. I wasn't going to walk 37km.to Pamplona as the others were, so ssid my goodbyes, and set off in my own time.
I like to walk and meditate. There are so many people walking now it is distracting. I soon found my own space in the procession though.
The path is hard underfoot with so many people walking it. It was mainly through woodland except the last few miles that were along a river.
When I reached Larrasoana there was no accomodation available, but the shop/bar owner phoned a friend and I was collected and taken to a small refugio, just 8 of us. Agh ! I sat in a car and had a ride. Actually I didn't give it a thought ! I could happily have dossed down for the night, but I wanted a shower and to wash clothes.
So many pilgrims walking past with no luck for a place for the night. I met a Mexican woman and invited her into the hostel for the night. The owner had gone home.

Sept 20th Espinals Spain

Day 38   17 miles   Total 474

After a good night under the stars the morning brought great views of the land below. We didn't find anywhere as good as our overnight "hotel".
The morning was cool and as we ascended a cold breeze came on.
Suddenly we are out of France and into Navarra/Basque Spain. Woohoo.
Vive Espana.
  Spain and the landscape changed from high altitude grazing land to forest. Predominantly Beech.
After a few miles the route became a long steep descent into Ronçavalles.
The walk and Roncavalles was so much busier than before SJPdP.
At Burguette I managed to get money from a cashpoint - wahey.
  Once at Espinals I bought my companions Anne, George (Austrian), great guy and Jourg (German) a beer to celebrate being in Spain and solvent again.
We had dinner at the hotel, 3 courses, €10.50 and slept the night under the church cloisters.

Sept 19th 7km after St Jean Pied du Port

  Day  37    15miles    Total  457

 After a traquil morning's walk with Donny, SJPdPort was hectic with lots of pilgrims arriving for the 1st day of their camino.

I met loads of people I'd met before. I checked out the donativo, but they were full.
After getting my criancial stamped I met up with Anne, yeah ! She was walking with George an Austrian guy who'd walked from his home.
As they were going to walk on I said I'd join them. Later we met Hannah. I'd forgotten she said she'd reserve me a place at the donativo.
Earlier when trying to get money from cash points, I couldn't. As I was down to €2 I felt Ok about going on.
It was a hot steep 7km to a perfect spot to stealth camp. My companions were dubious, (Teutonic correctness). Being a blagger, I thought it was 4☆. Table and chairs, running water, flat, and fabulous views.

Sept 18th Larceveau

Day 34   14 miles    total 442

After the 1st few miles the countryside was definately the foothills of the Pyrenees. Plenty of off road walking.
At one point I took a variant of the route, marked and signposted to the village of Uhart-Mixte. ETA sprayed on a wall and place names put this very much in Basque country.
By lunchtime I was in Ostabat-Esme, where I hoped to camp.
No luck at the 1st two gites. I met Nina at a restaurant, who was despondant that she was booked into a gite but sleeping on a mattress on the outside landing. It sounded ideal to me.
After coffee and a filled baguette along came Mikele and some other French. They'd stopped to look at churches along the way.
I had no luck at other gites along the way. At Larcevau I stopped at an hotel for a beer. It was too early to stealth camp. Donny a french guy turned up, and sharing a room was cheaper than the gites along the way today. Sorted !

Sept. 17th Aroue

Day 33   15 miles    total 428

After too much wine the night before, the day was a bit of a plod.
  Every day there are different aches and pains, today my feet felt battered.
After taking a short-cut I caught up with Mikele, and we walked the rest of the morning together, getting to Aroue by1pm.
The gite communal was grim, brown paint and military. The village shop had closed permanently. It was too far to go on to the next suitable accomadation.
So we walked back a km to a private gite that was brilliant.
With camping, evening meal and breakfast €20.
  I got friendly with a Danish woman, Hannah who was delighted to be able to have a conversation in English. So was Nina, a Russian woman who spoke heavily accented English and virtually no French.
It was so good to talk with Hannah, as she see's walking as dynamic meditation, as I do. Most of the French are old and conventional, so to meet a kindred spirit was wonderful. Hannah camps and still only carry's 6.5kg.
The food wad wonderful.   Although I only paid to camp, I slept in the salon area with the doors open, it was a bit hot first, but warmer than the tent, the temperature was 6 degrees in the morning. Autumn is coming on.

Sept 16th. Navarrenx

Day 32   19 miles   Total 413

So glad I stayed in the gite, as it rained most of the night.
A strange day, as a very warm ferocious wind gradually increased during the day. I saw a  metal roof from a barn on the ground nearby. Leaves and branches were thick on the ground in places. It was very hard to walk in the crosswind on one exposed ridge.
Navarrenx is a walled town and very atmospheric. The best thing about it being the gite, l'Alchemiste. It's run by volunteers, hippyish welcoming people, they wash and dry your clothes, provide a 3 course communal dinner, with plenty of wine. There's breakfast in the morning, and they ask for an anonymous donation in return.

Sept. 15th Arthez de Bearn

Day 31    19miles   Total 393.6

A couple of days ago my phone updated all my apps and the pedometer app ate the battery, so I'm for now going on the guidebook for distances.
The highlight of the day was seeing the Pyrenees in all their magnificence.
The weather was warm and cloudy.
The route was undulating, with lots of wandering to churches and crosses.
At my 1st break a few French caught up and left before me. I looked at the mapping and saw a shorter route. Whilst having my next break, they were astounded to see me drinking my coffee, again. Then on my final break they walked past me again totally confused !  Sorry, but I'm just not into climbing hills to see crosses or wandering to see churches. I'm a walker not a pilgrim.
Needless to say I got to Arthez de Bearn ahead of them all. I booked into the Pilgrims hostel as there was no camping en-route.
Bought some good ingredients to make dinner with, then it startrd to rain.
Dave Green messaged me about transfering to the GR653, which will take me over the Col Du Somfort into Spain, and better weather.
So tomorrow, weather permitting, I'll get to Navarrex and decide whether to change Camino's.

Thank you Dave for the inspiration !

Sept 14th Arzacq Arraziguet

Day 30    22miles   Total 374.6

The rain started during the night, so I packed quickly at dawn and had a coffee in a bar before setting off.
Less vineyards and more road walking all morning. The rain was inconsistant, but eased off by mid-afternoon.
Pierre walked with me after lunch and we got to Arzacq by 4. I dived into a supermarche to shop and was so hungry I ate a cold chicken curry as soon as I was out of the spermarche.
Camping was at the gite, so I had kitchen facilities, indoor seating, and a drying room for €4.

Sept. 13th Aire-sur-l'Adour

Day 29    17miles    Total352.6

After all of the rain yesterday, it was a dry start, hey, simple pleasures.
The countryside is mainly vineyards and maize. Not so spectacular, but pleasant enough.
Whilst on my 1st morning break a woman I'd shared the gite with at Figeas walked past with a man and woman. I then saw them a couple of times en-route. The guy was very friendly and French !
The last few miles into Aire sur l'Adour was along beside a disused railway.
Just before Aire sur l'Adour near a large restored lavoir I picked up a rain jacket that was dry, (it had recently rained). I left the jacket in the shelter of the lavoir.
On getting to the campsite I remet the friendly French guy, Pierre. He was staying in one of the set-up tents.
He'd found the jacket I'd left in the lavoir, and was going to go to the various gites to try and find the owner. In 2 weeks of walking 3 women had bought him dinner.
After a beer I gave him the phone no's of the gites listed in my guide. No one had lost a jacket. (next morning a woman was delighted he'd left it at the gite communal).

Sept 12th. Nogaro

Day 28   12miles    Total 335.6

The day started dry, with thunder  and dark clouds. A heavy shower gave way to light rain for a while, then stopped.
A barn complete with picnic tables and cold drinks was perfect for my 1st break.
The rain came on steadily whilst I was there, so I set off with waterproofs and brolly. As I got to Manciet the terraced seating off a stadium off a rural bullring made the perfect shelter.
The rain came on heavily, and I was joined in dribs and drabs by 18 French walkers. I stayed for 2 hours until the rain stopped.
After all the rain I took the direct route to Nogaro (the Chemin de Santiago) rather than a muddy walk off road.
The water bladder in my packed leaked and as I wasn't wearing waterproofs, I got wet in the small of my back.
The rain started again so I booked into the Gite de Etape.
There was Aldi and Carrefoure supermarches near, so I ate well.
I was the only non-French there, so didn't have a social evening. I did get some more of my book read though.

Sept. 11th Eauze

Day 27   19miles    Total 323.6

The past few days have been very humid. The day started with fog.
At a suitably placed picnic table  whilst taking my 1st break Anne arrived. Her gang is now 5 Germans. We walked together on and off until Montreal.
I wanted to push on to Eauze, and a hot shower and cold beer, they were stopping before to stealth camp.
Michael phoned ahead and booked me a bed in the gite communal.
The sun came out with avengence, fortunarely most of the afternoon's walk was in the shade. The last 9km along a disused railway track, which was soft underfoot.
After a shower, the local supermarche provided a frozen veggie lasagna and cold beers.
Most French walkers stay in Gites and eat in restaurants.
I cooked my lasagna at the gite. then drank my beer that cost 90c a can, in the cathedral square, alongside walkers who were paying €5 for a beer from the restaurant. It's a no-brainer to me.

Sept. 10th Condom

Day 21    15.6 miles    Total 304.6

The night was cloudy and very warm. I woke to the sound of gentle rain on the leaves above me. Fortunatly the rain wasn't so heavy as to drip through before I'd pack my backpack.
Mikele was already packed and we walked into the town centre together, where I stopped for an almond croissant. I didn't screw my water container on properly, and it leaked out inside my pack. Luckily my spare clothes and sleeping bag are stashed in a binbag for just such events !
  Mikele was going to go to Condom 33 miles on today. As I was leaving Lectoure ,(in the rain), a road sign said 22km for Condom. After checking my mapping, I worked out a route that was only main road for a few miles. The traffic was light and I soon was on a parallel road to the main road, that just happened to be the GR65.
The rain stopped as I reached a village for a break. I am so glad to have my brolly, the handle thcks under the cheststrap of my backpack, and I can walk, protected from the rain, not bundled in sweaty waterproofs, and with my hands free for using my walking poles.
Not long after leaving the village the sun was so strong that it was up with my beloved brolly again.
Where the route was on farm tracks, I picked up a lot of sticky soil on the soles of my shoes, boring.
I reached Condom over an hour ahead of Mikele, who was very suprised to see me already there.
We camped by the river with a very nice Swiss cyclist. It was great for the conversation to be in English, as he didn't speak much French either.

Sept. 9th Lectoure

Day 20   14.2miles   Total 289.1

After yesterdays awful 1st few hours of walking, I had 2 coffees before leaving the Gite.
The days are drawing in noticably now, it's not fully light until 7.15. It was a lovely temperature for getting some miles in early.
The Gers region looks after walkers by providing a seperate, often shaded path when following a road. Safe and nice on the feet.
The countryside was growing a lot of sunflowers and sorgum, a crop I haven't come across before.
With a couple of breaks I reached Lectoure just after 1pm. The heat was beginning to build for the last few miles and reached 34 by late afternoon. I'd met the lads outside the cathedral and we chilled there with some young Germans who have been walking for 3 months. They walk about 10km a day, very laid back !
The camping was free, but with just a tap provided.

8th Sept. St Antoine

Day 19.   17.2miles   total 274.9

A day of mostly paved walking. The 1st 8miles I was aching and tired, I reached the 1st bar, had a coffee and felt a new man - I'd bought decaffinated coffee yesterday.  I bought some proper coffee and binned the decaffinated.
The 1st 10 or so miles was on a canal path, nicely shaded by Plane trees. Then it was across country to the mighty river Garonne and uphill to Auvillar.
The lads have changed as Francois had to go home for a week, and Tarp-man, Mikele, is with us each evening now. I caught up with them in Auvillar and arranged to meet them to camp in St Antoine, at a Gite de Etape.
The Gite de Etapes are like hostels, dormitories and kitchen facilities, great for camping.

Sept 7th Moissac

Day18   16.7miles  Total 257.7

The 1st few hours are my favourite time walking, everthing is re-energised after the night.
Of course there was an ascent out of the valley.
Lots of crops in between the woodland. I realise how lacking in tree cover the UK is when I'm in Europe.
Trail magic at 2 places today. hot/cold drinks and grapes, melons, greengages and apples, all perfectly ripe. I picked up a couple of large plums that were beneath a tree, and they were the best flavoured plums ever.
I chatted with an Aussie couple over coffee at a village bar, then realised when checking my map that I'd save a few miles roadwalking the last 8 miles into Moissac. What a good decision, it was gently downhill.in the shade of Plane trees most of the way, with a grass verge to walk on. It,s just modern traffic that  has led to the path being rerouted.
To complete my pleasure of walking the main road, there was a Lidl,(a better range of food for me than most French supermarches), on the Approach to Moissac.
I met up with the lads and a few others outside the cathedral, before walking to the campsite on an island on the river Tarn.
The river's somewhat larger than when I kayaked in the Gorges du Tarn in July.

Sept. 6th Lauzerte

Day 17.  9.8miles   Total 241

It was not a good place to be camped, last night. There were cars passing each side of the campsite on and off all night, and over the road I could hear people talking until 5am.
So I started the day tired. Montcuq (= my arse in French)  was busy at 8am. with a large market setting up. The inevitable ascent was followed by walking through lovely countryside, so peaceful. At the top of one hill in a farmyard alongside some chairs were very ripe honeydew melons, for pilgrims. What Americans call trail magic. Mid-morning lack of sleep caught up with me and I had a kip in a shady spot.
After 9 miles I reached Lauzerte. It claims to be one of the prettiest medieval villages in France, there's a few ! It was windless and 27°, and headed off to the campsite. Tarp guy and the lads were heading here for the night.
A short day, but enough after 2 hard days walking.

Sept 5th. Montcuq

Day 16    21.5 miles   total 231

I walked into Cahors with a French guy who's backpacking with a tarp. After an excellent pan au raison and expensive coffee we seperated as he's a fast walker.
The exit from Cahors was over a spectacular Pont Valentre bridge followed by the steepest climb of the whole walk.
The route was easier going than yesterday's. Woodland and scrubby heathland, became almost downland towards the end of the day.
I was feeling pretty good after yesterday's walk, and passed quite a few people.
Arriving at Montcuq around 5, it was tourist office, beer at a bar, campsite, shower, supermarket.
Camped with tarp hiker from this morning.
The lads stopped 10km short of Montcuq.

Sept 4th. Cahors

Day 15   18.3miles.   Total 209.5

After a lovely night in the lavoir (communal laundry), except for the church bell, which chimed the hour, then repeated it 2minutes later in case you didn't hear it the 1st time, the 1st 3miles was road walking, but it saved 2miles.
The weather was good for walking. The Causse is hard underfoot though, so many stones. Not too many hills though.
After lunch it was warmer and the walking was consequently harder. Water points were few and far between.
The last few miles into Cahors was ridge walking that dragged on. Eventually Cahors came into sight, with a sudden descent into the city.
The river Lot surrounds the city on 3 sides.
We stopped and decided to take a taxi out to the camp site, which is off route.
When we crossed one of the bridges into the city, we came across a pilgrims info. office, where we discovered that a free bus went almost to the campsite, nice !
After resupplying with food and drink, it was a relief to have a long shower.
The lads were all in, and decided they'd have a lay-in in the morning. We were in bed by 8.30.

Sept 3rd. Varaire

Day 14    13.5miles   Total 191.2

The day started with light rain, and I set off with my brolly up, but didn't need waterproof's.
The ascent was at the start of the Causse, an area of limestone with stunted trees and few water points.
After 2 hours, the lads still hadn't caught up, I came upon a welcoming rest spot. Whilst there a lot of walkers  came in one's and two's. Eventually the lads arrived, having taken a wrong turn.
We walked together for the rest of the day. Arriving in Varaire it started raining and we made our base for the night under a roofed in part of an old lavoir. The water was inhabited by 4 ducks and large carp. A great spot to spend a dry night.

2nd Sept. Cajarc.

Day 13.   Rest day.

I decided to take a zero (miles) in Cajarc.
The day started with thick fog  which didn't clear until mid-morning.
The lads texted me to say they were coming into Cajarc, and when they arrived they deided to finish their day early.
Not walking gave my appetite a chance to make itself felt, and I snacked all day.

1st Sept. Cajarc

Day 12  17miles   total 176.7

A damp start after last nights storm and an ascent out of the valley. Evidence of last evening's storm was everywhere, fruit beneath tree's, leaves and branches everywhere. Lot's of tree's blown apart and uprooted.
I'm pleased I wasn't camping. The walking was affected by trees blocking the way, that had to be climbed over or through.
All morning there was the sound of chainsaws from people clearing storm damage.
My walking routine is to stop after 2hours, for a brew and 30minutes rest, walk another 2hours and 1hour for lunch and a siesta, walk 2 hours, 30minutes break, etc. I don't get too tired unless it's really hot.
The sun appeared in the afternoon and it was a good walk today with lower temperatures than the prevoius days.
I arrived  in Cajarc which is 30km (20miles) from Figeas, my pedometer said 17 miles ! 
I met up with Anne almost straight away. She's teamed up with 2 German women, who have also walk from Germarny. They were heading on a few km to wildcamp.
I wanted a shower and needed to charge my phone, so was staying at the municipal campsite.
Catherine was at the campsite already. We camped together. Whilst I had a shower and washed my clothes, she went into town and brought back beers to go with our dinner, bless her.
Francois texted to say they spent the night in a cosy chapel. and hoped to catch up with me soon.

31st August Figeac 15.2miles walked. total 159.7

Foraging.  On the walk I get to eat damsons, plums apples pears  blackberries and grapesThe peaches and apricots haven't been ripe enough, yet!
I had a miles walk to the village and being monday the cafe and boulangerie were closed.
After a steep walk out of the valley, I stopped at a gite and blagged a coffee. Then later I had a good feed on blackberries and grapes. I love it that the trail provides.
Again I saved a few miles by walking and not going on diversions, Arriving in Figeac just after 1pm.
The only campsites were beforr Figeac or a few miles after. As the humidity was really high and thunder and rain forecast, I booked into a Carmelite gite, religious, but donation only.
After unpacking and showering I went to buy provisions and immediately met Clara, a Dutch woman I hadn't seen for 2 days. Then almost immediately Anne, who I passed when taking my shortcut. She was with 2 other German woman, and they were heading on for the night.
It was difficult to find a supermarket in the maze of medieval streets, but eventually I got everything I needed.
Then the rain started so I dived into a bar for a beer.  The rain cleared the couds, but it was more humid than before....
After dinner at the gite, I went for a drink with Clara, (Dutch).
On the way back to the gite it started to rain. We'd only just got in and the storm hit, thunder, torrential rain, and really strong winds. Spectacular.